Cultural Sampling: Discovering Iran from the Armchair

In June, U3A Box Hill Armchair Travellers were treated to a fascinating journey through Iran, guided by Frank Devlin. Drawing on his own travels, Frank took us far beyond the headlines and into the rich history, culture and everyday life of one of the world’s oldest civilisations.

Beginning with the ancient Achaemenid Empire (550–330 BCE), Frank traced Iran’s story through more than 2,500 years of history. Along the way we visited the magnificent ruins of Persepolis, explored the country’s literary and artistic traditions, and gained insights into its architecture, religion and social customs.

Frank’s interest in Persian culture began with his admiration for the beauty and wisdom of 15th-century Sufi writings. When an opportunity arose to join a small international tour of Iran, he seized it. His group of twelve first met in the sprawling metropolis of Tehran before travelling by bus, train and on foot through some of Iran’s most historic cities, including Mashhad, Esfahan, Shiraz, Qum, Kerman, Kashan, Yazd and Khomeyn.

Through Frank’s photographs and stories, we encountered a remarkable blend of cultural influences. Sufi, Zoroastrian and Shia traditions have all left their mark on the country, creating a rich tapestry of beliefs and practices. We admired the engineering brilliance of Esfahan’s famous Khaju and Si-o-Se-Pol bridges, wandered through elegant Persian gardens designed to provide shade, cooling water and tranquillity, and marvelled at palaces, tombs and intricately carved wooden pavilions.

Particularly memorable were the dazzling mosques adorned with intricate tilework, their colours and patterns creating spaces of extraordinary beauty. Frank also shared personal experiences of observing religious worship and conversing with local Imams, providing insights that few tourists are privileged to enjoy.

Yet it was not only the grand monuments that left an impression. Frank introduced us to everyday Iranian life: bustling markets, family picnics, social gatherings and the traditional pastime of smoking shisha. These glimpses of ordinary life helped bring the country and its people into sharper focus.

Like many U3A members who have travelled to Iran, Frank was captivated by the contrast between vast desert landscapes, dramatic mountain scenery, ancient fire temples and the enormous bas-reliefs that stand as reminders of the country’s long history. Above all, however, he remembered the warmth of the people he met—welcoming, curious, generous and eager to engage with visitors.

The session prompted a thoughtful discussion among attendees. One sentiment resonated strongly: a government is not the same as its people. Travel, whether physical or virtual, can challenge assumptions and deepen understanding.

For those unable to visit distant places themselves, our Armchair Traveller sessions continue to open windows onto the world, revealing new horizons and offering fresh perspectives from the comfort of home.